So another 4 months have gone by!
It’s not so much that I haven’t had things to share, it’s finding the time.
Winter has dumped snow on a regular basis, three inches here, 8 inches there.
It is getting tiresome shoveling snow out of a 600 foot drive way.
Oh Yeah! By hand. Seems the tractor suddenly decided to take February off!
After much wailing and gnashing of teeth I have finally determined that the fuel shutoff solenoid sticks when it is very cold.
Sure, it runs fine when it is above freezing.
As soon as it snows, no go.
After the usual fuel filter and air filter replacement, fuel additive addition, fuse and relay checks, no change.
I checked that the correct hold and start voltages were being sent to the solenoid.
I did notice that the PTO switch would freeze and would not move.
Aha! Changed the PTO switch (part of the interlock system).
Nope, still no go.
Saturday I paid a visit to the John Deere dealer in Battlecreek, MI.
I related my troubles and trials to a guy behind the counter, he had the name Todd on his shirt.
He said that the 4600 Hydrostatics had been known to have a bit of trouble with the fuel shutoff solenoid.
He suggested that I try to start the tractor and if it would not start to then use a hair dryer to warm the solenoid up until it was just warm to the touch.
Ta Da! It started right up! 1:45 hour later the road and drives were clear.
Seems the solenoid is sticking when it gets below freezing and prevents the shutoff from releasing.
No release, no fuel.
So it looks like I get to replace the fuel shutoff solenoid.
In 5 years of abuse this is the first instance of trouble (except dead battery) encountered.
Well, if that’s the worst problem you’ve had in 5 years, I’d say your John Deere has treated you quite well. You should probably alert your neighbors to this fact. We don’t want any of them calling the loony bin to collect you when they see you heading outside to plow the driveway with a hair dryer….
I have 2 John Deere 4600 and they are both pieces of junk. Plastic Crap. They both have issues starting hot or cold. My 1965 Ford 3000 is more reliable than piece of crap that John Deere makes. Thank you for the tip on the selenoid.
how about an up date? 😉
Hi, I have a 4600 and its a great machine. Over the last few years i’ve had starting issues related to the fuel shut off solenoid. The problem is a thermistor located behind the fuse panel. When the key is turned on, full power is sent to the solenoid to open it then the thermistor goes ‘open’ and allows low ‘hold’ voltage only so the solenoid doesnt burn out. Basically, the thermistor is screwed and there is a TSB for it… no more problems!
I am considering buying a John Deere 4600 with 1800 hrs. on it. I noticed a very slite leak out of a breather hole in the bell housing and the clutch is hard to push in. Other than that the tractor looks great. Anybody have a recommendation or idea on these issues?
How did you get on with the solenoid? had a bit of trouble with mine. Anyway, interesting post, have given it a Digg.com for you.
I think I might have the same problem. I’ve repalced the solenoid twice and it will start several times with new solenoid but then will not. When I take solenoid off and turn key the solenoid rod will pull in and go right back out. I can push rod in with my finger and it will start working again. What the heck. Was the thermistor hard to replace? Thanks Dan
I have had a similar issue where the solenoid will not pull back, I found on mine that oil is getting into the nose cone of the solenoid keeping the plunger from retracting. I pull it out, work it a few times to remove the oil and it’s out to work I go. It’s annoying, but hesitant to purchase a new one.
I have a 4600 and I have two fuel shutoffs. When it will not start I put the other one in. Spray the first one with brake clean work the plunger hang upside down until the next one is full. And repeat.
Here is what I did to fix my fuel shutoff. Took the solenoid off, drilled a hole in the back of it, then drilled a hole in the piston inside the solenoid. Then I JB Weld a allen wrench in the piston, (a L shaped allen wrench, had a extra one in my tool box). I went to the local auto parts store and got a pull type on off cable for $7.50. I drilled a hole in the dash, and installed the cable, hooked the other end to the allen wrench. It’s very simple pull the cable turn the key, it starts every time no matter how hot or cold it is, push the cable and it cuts off. NO MORE $200.00 SOLENOIDS FOR ME!!!
Guys, the problem is not the solenoid, its the Thermistor located behind the fuse panel. It can be very intermittent or happen alot. The Thermistor controls the voltage to the solenoid. When working correctly, the thermistor sends full voltage to the solenoid which allows it to open. When resistance builds up the thermistor heats up and reduces output to a lower ‘hold’ voltage so the coil doesn’t burn up. So, if the thermistor has failed totally there will be a no start. If its kind of working then the solenoid might pull back. When its cold that bit of friction from oil may be enough to hold it with low voltage. It’s a very simple fix… the solenoids almost never burn up or quit working. Again, THERMISTOR BEHIND THE FUSE PANEL… save yourself time and aggrivation!
I am curious to find out what blog system you are using? I’m having some minor security problems with my latest website and I’d like to find something more safe. Do you have any solutions?
WordPress 3.5.2. awesome.